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Ninja Spider Trimaran Capsize Test & Sailing Videos

In our first post about the NINJA SPIDER TRIMARAN, we found this sailboat being offered in 3 different production variations. The first option, referred to at the time as the “NINJA SPIDER resort,” has been removed from the updated SMG-Multihull pricelist so things could be simplified.

The designer, Gerhard Schein, provided some updated photos of this boat, which display it during a recent “capsize test.” This is an surely an important subject when it comes to smallish beach trimarans.

Gerhard offers the following update below, in addition to the photos and a few YouTube links.


The basic NINJA SPIDER TRIMARAN model in our line is now the Spider ECO, with all fitted equipment incl. bowsprit, but delivered only with mainsail. (see new price list)

The NINJA SPIDER R is now the full equipped Spider, with three sails and roller furler. We’ve removed the “Magic box” as standard equipment, however, because we saw that not everybody wanted the box. The Ninja Spider tri fits on a roof rack from a middle class car.

Both models are the same. Only the sail sets are different. A crew of two can easily sail the three sails.

The NINJA Spider is designed as a fast, but safe singlehanded sports multihull. In light wind condition it’s not a big challenge to sail solo with tree sails. The cockpit is designed for that. In condition 3-4bft it’s nice to sail only with the main upwind and downwind together with the screecher.

We did a capsize test last time cause so many people were asking for it! It was not so easy to capsize the trimaran. I sailed quite a while with my crew on the leeward outrigger. The water surface was on the knees and we didn’t capsize!

Ninja Spider Trimaran Capsize Test

We had to pull the shrouds to leeward to capsize the boat. And – it capsized about the stern (see pics)!

Then we opened the capsize hatch on one outrigger stern to float the hull, and to press it with the crew weight under water. After turning the boat it easily started sailing again and the outrigger emptied itself. After a while you can close the hatch and enjoy sailing again.

For more about the Ninja, visit SMG Multihull at Sail-the-Difference.com. Finally, here are the new NINJA SPIDER TRIMARAN videos on YouTube…

CE drop test:

Sailing the Ninja Spider:

For more about the Ninja, visit SMG Multihull at Sail-the-Difference.com


  1. Hi.. I built a small ply tri.. After a few capsizes I decided to fill the amas with empty plastic bottles and the rest with PU foam because the water once in, could not get out and I’d rather go for 7 more kgs than for 70 more when water filled the ama volume ( one ama roughly 70 liters).

    How did you manage to make them self bailing ?

  2. Hi Stefano,
    If you click on the last photo and look very closely at the back of the ama, you will see a screw cap/hatch that can open up to let water out. You probably could fit small cap-hatches on your ply amas in order to achieve the same thing.

  3. It’s a bit hard to be sure from reading the text (due to what appears to be some kind of translation issue) but it appears that in the case of the Ninja tri, those inspection ports are being used to flood the ama as part of the recovery process, to overcome some of the righting moment that makes tris hard to turn back over once they’ve turned turtle-

    “we opened the capsize hatch on one outrigger stern to float the hull, and to press it with the crew weight under water. ”

    I may be wrong, but I think they meant to say “to sink the hull”…

    it’s something Stefano and others might want to consider when deciding to install permanent flotation or to permanently seal the hulls- depending on the boat, you may want to maintain the ability to flood the amas at will for this kind of recovery procedure, especially with larger boats where crew weight alone may not be enough to flip the thing over.

    The ability to partially sink an ama can also be an advantage if you need to raise the opposite ama in the event of a holing or to perform needed repairs, and also when doing certain diving and salvage/rescue type operations where you want to apply all that crossarm leverage to something like a stuck anchor or a disabled swimmer and don’t have enough crew weight to overcome the ama’s buoyancy.

    Personally I’d be freaked out to just unscrew that type of inspection cover/cap kind of thing out on the water, especially when swimming in conditions that caused a capsize in the first place…at the very least I’d want some strong leashes to keep them with the boat.

    And even then, I’d consider that setup to only be partially ‘self-bailing’ at best…true self bailing is pretty much a hands-off deal that uses either a strategically placed venturi style fitting that sucks water out via forward boat motion and seals water out at rest with a simple gasket/check valve (the “Elvstrom bailer” is the classic one), or uses spring loaded flaps that open with water pressure to allow water to flow out of the boat when swamped (the “transom flap”).

    They are very common in racing dinghys (Lasers have a venturi fitting built in) and could be used not only to make small tri hulls truly self bailing, but also as part of a righting and recovery system/protocol by manually overriding the check valve aspect.

  4. I think you’re understanding their procedure correctly Ian. And you additional info is great!

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